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        Nissan 
          Skyline R33 GTS25T
        Under 
          the hood (stock 130 to 140rwkw)
          The Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T is a great base for tuning. The GTR's 
          little brother is 200kg lighter and is equipped with the awesome RB25DET. 
          The R33 has 187kw at the flywheel and most manuals see 130-140 rear 
          wheel KW on a dyno. The 2.5 liter six is impressive featuring a twin 
          cam 24 valve head with Variable valve timing on the intake side only. 
          Induction is via a Single ball bearing turbo charger which comes onto 
          boost fast with its ceramic exhaust wheel. To keep inlet temperatures 
          down the car is equipped with a small side mounted intercooler. 
           
        Engine 
          Tuning Stage 1
          Exhaust (around 160rwkw)
          The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form 
          and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. 
          A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag 
          will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new 
          exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" 
          open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from 
          the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow 
          cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car 
          with high flow mufflers. 
        Intake (160 
          to 170rwkw)
          Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is 
          to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, 
          or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to 
          go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield 
          to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air 
          intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you 
          a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.
        Intercooler 
          Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw) 
          The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend 
          installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm 
          days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and 
          bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. 
          The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going 
          further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will 
          be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be 
          required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You 
          may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing 
          boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s 
          the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you 
          don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend 
          the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in 
          throttle response.
        Boost increase 
          (175 to 185rwkw)
          In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi 
          to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the 
          turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat 
          is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is 
          debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a 
          few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost 
          controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator. 
          
        A manual controller 
          is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate 
          actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount 
          of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market 
          boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge 
          is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual 
          boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there 
          disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also 
          found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range. 
        Electronic boost 
          controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about 
          every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep 
          are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. 
          Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification 
          a manual controller will probably be good enough.
        A 3rd option is 
          to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 
          GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is 
          set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the 
          best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost 
          creep are eliminated. 
        No mater which system 
          you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. 
          After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout 
          the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and 
          as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people 
          find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem 
          but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade. 
        ECU (185 
          to 200+rwkw)
          As mentioned before many people have problems with flat spots and rich 
          air fuel ratios. Even if you don’t have these dreaded flat spots an 
          aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability. 
          One popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The 
          SAFC is a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking 
          your engine is getting more or less air than your engine actually is. 
          Tuning should be done be a professional on a dyno this modification 
          should fix those dreaded flat spots by leaning you airfuel ratio's at 
          different RPM points. 
        A better but more 
          expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the standard ECU. 
          Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other aftermarket 
          ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to 
          cut any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power 
          FC but once again it should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please 
          note the power FC cannot be used an automatic transmission.
        Clutch and 
          Fuel Pump
          At this level of modification it’s likely that your clutch and or fuel 
          pump will need upgrading to handing the extra power. 
        Conclusion
          This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T. 
          Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and 
          fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning is 
          offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications with 
          and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have 12 run second quarter 
          mile passes. 
        
Continue to Engine Tuning 
          Stage 2
        
Please 
          use this as a guide only I recommend consulting a professonal before 
          carrying out any of these modifications. Nissanskyline.6te.net takes 
          no responsiblity for any problems you may encounter from following this 
          guide. 
           
        
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